Traditional Samoan Necklaces and Tattoos: From Cultural Symbolism to Modern Streetwear

In communities from Auckland to Los Angeles, young Samoans are proudly blending tradition with trend. Picture a graduate draped in a bold red ula fala necklace at her ceremony, or a group of friends repping the number 685 on their streetwear hoodies. These aren’t just fashion statements – they’re powerful symbols of identity, heritage, and pride. In this post, we explore the meaning behind traditional Samoan ceremonial necklaces like the ula nifo and ula fala, the cultural significance of the malu tattoo and Samoan tatau, and how these ancient symbols are inspiring modern Polynesian fashion. It’s a journey that ties cultural history to today’s streetwear, connecting Samoan youth (and the wider Polynesian diaspora) to their roots in style.

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Cultural Symbolism in Samoan Fashion

For Samoans, clothing and adornments aren’t merely decorative – they carry stories. Traditional items like ceremonial necklaces and tattoos (tatau) are known as measina (cultural treasures), symbolizing status, community roles, and ancestral heritage. Historically, what one wore could speak volumes: a specific necklace might mark a person as a chief, and certain tattoo patterns could signify one’s family and responsibility. This deep symbolism continues today, especially among diaspora youth who use fashion to stay connected to their roots. When a Samoan wears an item bearing traditional designs, it’s a visible reminder of who they are and where they come from – a wearable badge of identity in a globalized world.

Traditional Ceremonial Necklaces: Ula Fala and Ula Nifo

Among the most iconic pieces of Samoan attire are the ceremonial garlands known as ula. The word “ula” simply means necklace or lei in Samoan, but not all ula are the same. Two particularly important types are the ula fala and the ula nifo, often seen in chief ceremonies, cultural celebrations, and even modern interpretations of Samoan formal dress. Let’s look at each of these and what they represent.

Ula Fala – The Red Necklace of Chiefs

The ula fala (sometimes called the “lei of the chiefs”) is a striking red necklace made from the dried segments of the pandanus fruit. Each piece is shaped and often dyed a vibrant red, strung together to form a garland. In Samoan culture, such lei-style necklaces are made from many natural materials – flowers, leaves, shells, seeds, and even whale teeth – but the ula fala holds special prestige. It is primarily worn by Samoan chiefs and high-ranking individuals, serving as an unmistakable visual marker of social status. If you attend a traditional ceremony (say, an ava drinking ritual or a matai title bestowal), you’ll notice the chiefs and orators distinguished by their ula fala. The bold red color is no accident; in Samoan custom red is associated with high rank and honor, so the necklace instantly signifies respect.

Beyond its role in marking chiefs, the ula fala also plays a part in Samoan hospitality and ceremony. These necklaces are often put on special guests during important events, presented as gifts to dignitaries or visitors as a gesture of respect and welcome. They’ve adorned the walls of Samoan homes as decorations and heirlooms as well, symbolizing the presence of honor even when not worn. Recently, the ula fala even found global spotlight in pop culture – for instance, members of the famous Anoa’i family in professional wrestling have worn it on TV to signify being “Tribal Chief.” (In 2020, WWE superstar Roman Reigns received an ula fala on-screen as a symbol of leadership in his Samoan family storyline. This crossover moment introduced the ula fala’s significance to international audiences, but for Samoans the meaning was always deep. Whether worn at a village ceremony or printed as a motif on modern apparel, the ula fala represents authority, dignity, and the continuity of tradition.

Style tip: The ula fala is typically worn draped loosely over the shoulders to hang around the neck, usually against a plain garment (traditionally a white shirt or ie faitaga for men) so that its red color really stands out. In contemporary fashion, you might not wear a pandanus necklace every day, but you can incorporate its essence. For example, a t-shirt or hat featuring a red ula fala graphic can be a fresh way to signal Samoan pride. If adding actual ula fala pieces to an outfit, remember they are culturally significant – best saved for ceremonies, cultural festivals, or times you want to honor your Samoan heritage in a big way.

Ula Nifo – The Whale-Tooth Necklace

Another eye-catching heirloom is the ula nifo, sometimes called the “tooth necklace.” Traditionally, this necklace was made from the teeth of a sperm whale, polished and carved into curved, fang-like pendants that are then strung into a semicircular necklace. In old Samoa, whale teeth were extremely valuable and a symbol of wealth – owning an ula nifo was thus a sign of high status and honor. Typically, an ula nifo would be worn by a high chief or their designated dancer during the taualuga (the graceful Samoan finale dance) at important celebrations. Seeing someone perform the taualuga adorned with an ula nifo, along with a traditional headdress (tuiga), is a powerful image of cultural pride. The necklace’s gleaming, ivory-colored teeth swaying with each movement immediately signal that this person bears authority and respect, with the ula nifo itself symbolizing wealth and status.

The ula nifo’s origin reflects both Samoan resourcefulness and changing times. While in the past genuine whale teeth or boar tusks were used (since hunting whales is now restricted and ethically problematic), today many ula nifo are made from alternative materials. Carved cow bone, ivory-colored resin, or even wood are crafted to resemble the traditional whale-tooth shape, making the ula nifo accessible to Samoans who want to uphold tradition without harming wildlife. What hasn’t changed is the meaning – even a replica ula nifo carries the mana (spiritual prestige) of the original design. It’s often brought out for cultural exhibitions, dances, weddings, and graduations in the diaspora. If you’ve seen photos of Samoan cultural performances, you may have noticed the performers wearing this white-toothed necklace as part of their regalia.

Modern twist: Because the ula nifo is such a striking piece, it’s inspiring contemporary jewelry and fashion accessories. Designers have created pendants and earrings that mimic the curved tooth shape for everyday wear – a subtle nod to the ula nifo that can be paired with casual outfits. Even graphic tees and tattoos feature the silhouette of the ula nifo. Wearing a piece with an ula nifo design (for example, a necklace pendant in the shape of a whale tooth) can be a conversation starter about Samoan culture. It’s part of what we offer in modern Polynesian fashion: items that marry the old and new. (Our Heritage Ula Nifo tee, for instance, prints the iconic necklace outline onto a streetwear-style shirt – letting you represent that symbol of status in a daily look.) Just as with the ula fala, the key is respecting the meaning: rock your ula nifo-inspired gear with pride and an understanding of its origins.

The Malu and Tatau: Tattoos Inspiring Fashion Prints

Few aspects of Samoan culture are as revered and visually striking as the art of tattoo – known in Samoan as tatau. In fact, the English word “tattoo” itself comes from the Polynesian word (Samoan tatau or Tongan tātau). Samoan tattooing is an ancient practice rich with meaning. It includes the famous male tattoo called the pe’a, which spans from mid-torso to knees, and the female tattoo called the malu, which covers a woman’s thighs down to just below her knees. Both are more than body art; they are rites of passage and marks of commitment to family and culture. Because not everyone can (or chooses to) undergo the tattooing process, a new trend has emerged: incorporating traditional tattoo motifs into clothing designs. This allows people to wear their culture proudly on fabric if not on skin. Before we get into the fashion side, let’s explore what the malu and tatau signify, especially for the youth.

The Meaning of the Malu Tattoo

The malu is the intricate tattoo borne by Samoan women. The word “malu” can be translated as “to shelter” or “protection” – and indeed, according to Samoan scholars, the tattoo signifies the bearer’s role to protect and serve their family and community. The malu covers the thighs from just below the knee to the upper thigh. Its designs are typically finer, more delicate and linear than the male pe’a tattoo. Key motifs often include star-like patterns, geometric lines, and a distinctive motif behind the knee called the malu (which the entire tattoo is named after). Historically, only the daughters of chiefly families (the village taupou, or ceremonial princess) would receive the malu, often as teenagers, signifying their readiness to assume ceremonial duties and embody grace and service. Over time this tradition has evolved – by the late 20th century and into today, women from various backgrounds (not only chiefly lineage) choose to get the malu as a symbol of cultural pride and womanhood. The malu has seen a resurgence, especially among the Samoan diaspora, as a cherished link to identity. In places like New Zealand, Australia, and the US, getting a malu is for many young women a way to stay connected to Samoan heritage. It’s deeply personal and spiritual; the process is undertaken with prayer, family support, and an understanding that the patterns connect the wearer to generations of ancestors.

With that said, the malu (and the male tatau) carry immense respect. They are not fashion accessories – they are sacred markings earned through pain and commitment. There are even debates within Samoan communities about who should wear them and under what circumstances, reflecting how important these tattoos are to cultural integrity. Many who bear the malu say they feel “complete” as Samoan women, and carry a daily reminder of their responsibility – to be, as the word suggests, a shelter and protector for their aiga (family). For those who do not have a malu, seeing one can still be inspiring. It’s common at cultural events to admire the malu of a dancer or cousin and feel a sense of pride in that shared heritage.

From Skin to Fabric: Tatau Motifs in Modern Fashion

Samoan tattoo patterns are undeniably beautiful – so it’s no surprise they have made their way into fashion prints. This is where tradition truly meets trend. Many Polynesian designers and brands (including The Koko Samoa) are creating apparel that features motifs inspired by the pe’a and malu tattoos. Think leggings with bold geometric patterns running down the leg, reminiscent of a malu design, or athletic jerseys and hoodies adorned with Samoan geometric motifs across the shoulders. By wearing these, people can symbolically wrap themselves in the same cultural imagery as the tattoos, without actually being tattooed. It’s a respectful nod to the art form and an expression of pride.

One popular approach in Samoan-inspired streetwear is using repetitive patterns and motifs that mirror those in traditional tattoos: for example, the fa’avae (centipede motif) or aveau (starfish motif) may appear in a print. Our own Malu Leggings design (internal link) uses a pattern drawn from the malu – with delicate net-like patterns and star shapes – arranged in a way that flatters the modern silhouette while echoing the original tattoo’s placement on the thighs. The result is athletic wear that literally weaves cultural meaning into the fabric. Every squat at the gym or walk in the park becomes a subtle celebration of heritage!

This trend isn’t limited to women’s wear. Men’s clothing also embraces tatau designs. It’s common to see a Samoan man’s dress shirt or t-shirt printed with bold pe’a-inspired patterns across the chest or sleeves – almost like wearing a piece of the pe’a over Western clothing. Streetwear brands have released snapback caps, sneakers, and even bomber jackets with tatau motifs. Importantly, these designs have crossed over to mainstream fashion in places with large Pasifika populations. For example, at Pacific Islander festivals or sports events (think rugby or football matches where Polynesian teams play), you’ll see crowds wearing gear covered in these tribal patterns. It’s both a fashion statement and a cultural flag.

Modern Samoan Jewelry and 685 Streetwear Trends

Beyond traditional ceremonies and tattoos, Samoan culture is also expressed in contemporary jewelry and global streetwear – especially through the energy of the diaspora. Young Polynesians today are infusing island flavor into urban fashion, creating a unique style that says “I’m Polynesian and proud” the moment you see it. Let’s break down two big parts of this: modern Polynesian jewelry and the rise of “685” streetwear.

Jewelry with a Twist of Tradition: Take a stroll through markets in Apia or Samoan pop-up shops in California, and you’ll find artisans reimagining traditional motifs in modern jewelry. For instance, the delicate patterns of a tatau might be engraved onto a silver bangle or a pair of earrings. The pandanus motifs of an ula fala could inspire a string of red beads in a contemporary necklace. Even the mighty ula nifo is turned into stylish bling – some jewelers craft pendants shaped like a single whale tooth, cast in gold or resin, sometimes even inlaid with Samoan designs. These pieces are popular among both men and women; they’re subtle enough for everyday wear but carry deep cultural resonance. Wearing a Samoan-inspired necklace or bracelet to the office or on a date can be a great conversation starter (“Is that a whale tooth on your necklace?” “Yes, let me tell you about the ula nifo…”). It’s fashion meeting education. Brands have also started labeling such items with meaningful names – for example, a “Malu Shield” pendant or “Polynesian Warrior” ring – to explicitly connect the product back to its cultural inspiration. The goal is not just to look good, but to feel connected. And while traditionalists might have once worried about cultural dilution, many now see this evolution as keeping the culture alive. As long as it’s done respectfully and authentically, modern Samoan jewelry allows younger generations (and even supportive non-Samoan friends) to wear symbols of Samoa in daily life.

The 685 Movement in Streetwear: If you’ve browsed Polynesian streetwear online or on Instagram, you’ve likely come across designs emblazoned with 685. For the uninitiated, 685 is Samoa’s international telephone code – and it has transformed into a proud badge for Samoan identity abroad. Diaspora Samoans often say “repping the 685” to mean representing Samoa wherever they are. This trend exploded in recent years, with t-shirts, hoodies, caps, and even sports jerseys sporting “685” in bold fonts, often alongside Samoan flags or tribal patterns. It’s not just a number; it’s a statement: Samoa to the world. As one article noted during the Rugby League World Cup, Samoan fans rallied behind the slogan “685 to the world,” literally chanting it as an anthem of pride. Seeing “685” on apparel unites Samoans – whether you’re in Auckland, Sydney, or Seattle, if you spot someone in a 685 hoodie, you give them a nod of recognition. It’s a way diaspora youth especially have created unity and visibility.

Streetwear brands run by Pacific Islanders have taken note. Collections now feature minimalist designs like just “685” in sharp typography for a clean look, or more elaborate ones that interweave the numbers with Samoa’s national symbols (the Southern Cross stars, the teuila flower, etc.). Our own 685 Edition tees and hoodies (internal link) are bestsellers – partly because they speak to that shared sense of pride. And you don’t have to be Samoan to wear it; many Polynesian cousins (Tongans, Maori, Fijians) wear each other’s numbers or symbols in solidarity, celebrating the whole Pasifika family. However, if you are Samoan, there’s a special thrill in wearing 685 on your chest – it’s like a secret handshake in numeric form.

Beyond the numbers, modern Polynesian streetwear also includes bold graphics and slogans. You’ll find shirts that say “Island Raised”, “Samoan Made”, or phrases in Samoan language. There’s a playfulness at times – mixing hip-hop or pop culture references with island culture. One could spot a tee that mashes up a popular brand logo with Samoan designs, for example. The key element, however, is authenticity. The best-received designs are usually created by Samoans or Polynesians themselves, ensuring that the symbols (be it a tattoo pattern or a cultural reference) are used correctly and respectfully. It’s fashion by the people, for the people.

Honoring the Past, Shaping the Future of Island Style

The beauty of Samoan fashion – from ceremonial necklaces to tattoo-inspired prints – is that it’s always evolving while staying true to its roots. Today’s generation of Samoans and Polynesian youth are more connected globally than ever, and they’re using that platform to push their culture to the forefront. What does the future hold for these traditions? In many ways, a continued renaissance. We’re seeing second- and third-generation diaspora not only uphold but reinvent cultural expressions. Young designers of Samoan heritage are launching clothing lines, jewelry boutiques, and art projects that draw on ancient symbols like the malu, the ula fala, and the patterns of siapo (tapa cloth), blending them with modern aesthetics. The result: a fusion that speaks to both the village and the metropolis.

Expect to see more collaboration and visibility too. Polynesian patterns have already hit high fashion runways and mainstream retail through collaborations (for example, a global sneaker brand might team up with a Pasifika artist to create a Polynesian-print shoe). As long as these collaborations involve Polynesian voices, it’s a chance to share Samoan culture with wider audiences in a respectful way. Within Samoa itself, cultural schools and makers are ensuring that knowledge of how to weave an ula fala or tattoo the old ways is passed down. That ensures that even as we rock these designs on T-shirts and caps, we don’t forget their original form and context.

For diaspora Samoans, the traditional items are becoming cherished heirlooms and cool collectibles. Your grandmother’s ula nifo might hang next to your Nike shoes – and that’s a beautiful thing. Wearing these items or their modern derivatives is more than fashion; it’s a statement of survival and pride. It says: “Our culture is alive and it adapts. We carry our ancestors on our backs and chests, into the future.” In an era when many indigenous cultures fight to be seen, Samoans are using style as a vibrant form of storytelling and assertion of identity.

Whether you’re a Samoan looking to embrace your heritage, a Polynesian cousin supporting the movement, or an admirer of the culture eager to learn, there’s a place for you in this narrative. Just remember to wear it with respect: understand the meaning of that pattern or necklace you’re donning, and you honor the people behind it. As The Koko Samoa team likes to say, it’s about combining heritage with innovation, bringing “timeless elegance of Samoa into modern design”. Every ula fala print on a jacket or malu motif on a dress is a thread connecting past to present. So go ahead – celebrate that connection. Rock that ula fala tee or those tatau-print leggings. In doing so, you’re not just keeping up with the trend; you’re carrying forward a legacy.

Fa’afetai tele lava (thank you very much) for reading. Wear your culture proudly, and let your style tell the story of Samoa – old and new.

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